Situated above the Pamukkale white travertine terraces lie the ruins of ancient Hierapolis which was rebuilt by the Romans in the 2nd/3rd centuries AD following earthquakes 100 years earlier. On the same site is a professionally run modern
spa facility which allows you to enjoy the historical healing waters for a
small fee. Unlike the white water of the
lower pools the Antique Pool allegedly favoured by Cleopatra (although Göksel says this is just a clever marketing ploy to get more visitors) is pure
clear warm water. Once it was surmounted
by a Roman Temple to Apollo but now many of the ornate columns which held up
the roof lie in the pool itself.
And I was worrying about dropping my camera in 6" of water!
This hand operated pump in the traditional style lets you take water direct from the source to fill your water bottles and drink the good health that helped keep Cleopatra beautiful! Several of our group tried it and declared it to taste revolting.
But it does boast some marvellous powers.
A nearby town, Denizli, has given its name to a breed of rooster that is famous for crowing for a long time. In fact a video of one particular cockerel crowing for so long it passed out was apparently a YouTube sensation (no accounting for taste) and so this giant statue stands outside the spa entrance.
There are several sections of ruins worth visiting here but spread over a large area and although Göksel doesn't always consider the physical limitations of some of the group, to his credit he did this time and arranged for a minibus to ferry us around'
This theatre is vast and the stage building with its intricate friezes has been reconsolidated by Italian excavators.
We know by now that raised walls around the orchestra meant that gladiatorial competitions were held there and thanks to my super 100-500m lens we can see where the gladiators or their animal opponents were actually caged before a contest.
A replica of the marble statue of Hades, Greek god of the underworld, and his three headed dog Cerberus.
The original statue is known to have been here in ancient times.
The arch in the middle of the water left is the Gate to Hell or entrance to the plutonium, a small grotto sacred to the god of the underworld (Roman=Pluto, Greek=Hades) and you can hear the gushing water and hissing of poisonous gases. A grill guards the actual cave mouth now but back in the day eunuch priests could apparently enter without ill effect.
The theatre from the back and a huge pile of old stones awaiting rebuilding.
We then hopped back into the minibus and drove a good 5 mins to the Frontinus Gate, which was the entrance to the city and was dedicated to Domitian (him of the fat arm) .
The main street was quite wonderful.
Especially in the soft afternoon light.
Outside the gate was a vast necropolis with loads of sarcophagi.
Of course I was more interested in this lizard but, despite stalking him for a good while, I never did manage a front view.
Our hotel for the night, Colassae Thermal Spa was only about 15 mins drive away and as the name suggests is famed for its waters. The place reminded me of a 1970s holiday camp; the walls were paper thin and the place was running with children. But again on the basis we're only here once we felt we should sample the waters and so having purchased our special hats, in we went.
The red waters (look mucky brown to me) but they were pleasantly warm.
I could only manage one snap in the hamam before my lens fogged up.
The indoor pool with Göksel and our driver Aziz.
